This report is the outcome of an enchanting temple tour in which I could explore the rich cultural heritage of our land. Some magnificent temples, which were a feast to the eyes, some remarkably friendly people, who will be in my memory for ever, made this tour an unbelievable one. At the same time, it was really painful to see some great temples, left to rot due to the negligence of the locals and the absence of Archagars in many temples. I left those places with the fond hope that one day the Lord inside the temple Himself will help to bring back the temples to its past glory.
1. Uthravedhi ambal sametha Yagneswara temple, Tiruvarur town.
The Temple is believed to be 1000 years old. The Temple is located on the opposite side of the western gopuram of Tiruvarur Thyagaraja Temple and on the other side of the Kamalalayam tank.
2. Manikkavalli sametha Kailasanatha temple, Tiruvarur town
Once Brahma performed yajna with ghee which he got from Kamadhenu, Agni kept ingesting more of that ghee than he needed and due to drinking too much ghee, Agni became ill. Agni could not go and accept the ghee after that and thus Brahma and other gods and Agni’s wives were upset. When asked for remedy, Sage Vyasa said that after taking a bath in the Tiruvarur Kamlalaya temple pond, one should worship Kailasanatha, who is a Swayambhu. Agni did the same and got rid of this problem. So you can worship this Lord to get rid of the ailments of Agni. This is another 1000-year-old temple in East Car Street, Tiruvarur.
3. Mangalambika sametha Neelakantheswara temple, Tiruvarur town
A small but beautiful temple in the East Sannadhi street of Thyagaraja temple, worshipped by Thiruneelakanda Nayanar. There is a separate sannathi for Thiruneelakanda Nayanar and his wife.
4. Swarnambal sametha Dharmapureeswara temple, Vada Kandam
The Temple is considered as Thevara Vaippu Sthalam mentioned in the hymns sung by Appar. The Temple is believed to be 1000 years old. The place was called as Thalichathangudi during ancient times. This place is right on the road from Tiruvarur to Kumbakonam.
5. Soundaranayaki sametha Agastheeswara temple, Manakkal
The temple is right on the road from Tiruvarur to Kumbakonam. Sage Agasthya performed penance here for grant of the wedding darshan of Lord Shiva with Mother Parvathi that took place in the Himalayas. Hence the name of the Lord is Agastheeshwara. The antiquity of the temple goes back to 1500 years.
6. Anandanayaki sametha Kailasanatha temple, Arasavanankadu
Arasavanangadu is located on the Kumbakonam – Tiruvarur road. Adjacent to the main highway, the east facing temple is five feet high from the ground level like a Maada Koil. As it was a forest full of Peepal trees, it was called Arasa Vanam and later became Arasavanankadu. This is an Anthana village formed by the Cholas and is one of the eighteen Anthana villages known as the Eighteen Vathimas.
A few metres away is the adhishtanam of Swayam Prakasendra Saraswathy Swamigal also called the Nagappattinam Periyava. He was a great Sri Vidhya Upasaka and when Maha Periyava (Paramacharya) ascended the Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam, he sent the procedures to be followed for Sri Vidhya pooja to Maha Periyava.This place also houses the jeeva samadhis of his disciple Pudukkottai Swamigal and his disciple Achuthanantha Saraswathy aka Varagur Swamigal. A pleasant place with great vibrations.
7. Anandavalli sametha Agastheeswara temple, Sembangudi
A small but beautiful temple, again connected with Sage Agasthya, like many other temples in this area. A Maha Meru has been installed in front of the Ambal sannidhi by chanting of beejakshara mantra of Lalitha Parameswari one crore times. This place is 2 kms off the Kumbakonam to Tiruvarur road near Kudavasal.
8. Bruhannanayaki sametha Kailasanatha temple, Perumpannaiyur
A typical village temple on the banks of Chozha choodamani river, a tributary of Kudamurutti river. This temple houses Lakshmi narayana sannithi and a Shivalingam named Pandeeswara, which suggests the grants from Pandya Kings. This place is just off the Kumbakonam to Tiruvarur main road between Simizhi and Manakkal.
9. Meenakshi sametha Sundareswara / Sivakami sametha Rajendra Choleeswara temple, Simizhi.
A small temple which houses two shrines of Lord and Ambal – Rajendra Choleeswara and Sivakami as the presiding deities and Meenakshi Sundareswara in the praakaram. This temple is just off the Tiruvarur – Kumbakonam main road. 10. Kamalavalli sametha Kailasanatha temple, Neikuppai An ancient Chola temple. It is believed that Pandavas worshipped in this temple. This temple is 3 kms off the Kumbakonam – Tiruvarur main road.
10. Kamalavalli sametha Kailasanatha temple, Neikuppai
An ancient Chola temple. It is believed that Pandavas worshipped in this temple. This temple is 3 kms off the Kumbakonam – Tiruvarur main road .
11. Brahannayaki sametha Dhundhubeeswara temple, Sengalipuram made into medicine.
The old name of this village was Thirukaleeswaram. During the Ninth century, Pallava King Nandivarman III constructed this temple. Later, in the 11th century, the commander of Rajendra Chozhan, Arayan Rajarajan, defeated the Chalukya King Jayasimha. Due to this victory, he came to be called Jayasinga Kulakalan. Since the king gave this village as a gift to his commander, it came to be called Jayasingakulakalapuram. This lengthy name, over a period of time, got shortened to Sengalipuram. This small village became popular due to the name and fame of Brahmasri Anantharama Dikshitar, well known for his pravachanams. This village is around 20 Kms from Tiruvarur and is around 4 Kms from Kodavasal.
12. Nisthulambika sametha Chozheeswarar temple, Sengalipuram
The Temple is believed to be 1000 years old. Inscriptions indicate that Vikrama Chola undertook restoration work and that the name ‘Chola Eeswaran’ was given to the Lord as it was a Shiva temple rebuilt by the Cholas. Inscriptions record that Chola kings and Chalukya kings gave donations to temples. Lord Vishnu is believed to have bathed in the Chakra Tirtham here and got relief from a curse. Goddess Mahalakshmi prayed to Lord Shiva here at Choleeswarar Sengalipuram to remove hurdles for her marriage with Lord Vishnu. The name of the Goddess “Nisthualambika” means that she is unmatched in glory. As per another legend, Parameswara took the holy water from the Ganga and gave it to Vishnu and asked him to give it to Ganesha. Mahavishnu also took the tirtham and consecrated it at the Sengalipuram temple and gave it to Ganesha. Ganesha bathed in it and worshipped Parameswara with Parvati and received blessings. For the benefit of the world, Lord Brahma stayed here for a long time and did penance to Lord Shiva. Then Shiva gave darshan to each of the four faces of Brahma in the four directions of Brahmalingam, Vedalingam, Jyothilingam and Soleswaralingam. The temple is unique in that the nine Navagrahas stand in a straight line in front of Lord Soleswara facing east towards the Chakra Tirtham. It is believed that those with Navagraha doshas will get rid of them by worshiping Lord Chozheeswara.
13. Prasanna Parvathi sametha Vishahareswara temple, Aavanam Paruthiyur
This temple was built by Aditya Chola (C.E. 870-901). The Chola name for the temple was Thiru Adittecharam. The temple was renovated and taken care by a great Shiva Bhakta by the name Paruthiyur Venkatesha Sastri, popularly known as Annaval. Annaval had spent most of his time in this temple with his parayanams of the Shiva Purana, teaching the scriptures, spreading bhakti and promoting Hindu Dharma. He was an authority on Saivite traditions. Annaval addressed several issues by answering the queries on Dharma Sastra and Hindu traditions, often posed to him by Vedic scholars. His authority on the administration of dharma made many legal luminaries come to him seeking his advice on issues concerning Hindu law. Paruthiyur Venkatesha Sastri Annaval (1770 –1841), along with his brother Paruthiyur Sri Krishna Sastri Ayyaval (1773–1860), were the doyen brothers of Paruthiyur and for the Hindu Religion. The great exponent of the Ramayana, Philanthropist and Pravachan Pioneer Bramasri Paruthiyur Krishna Sastrigal (1842-1911) renovated this Vishahareswarar Temple and did Kumbhabhishekam in 1905. Once Rahu approached with his mouth agape to eclipse the Sun, he became very angry when he saw the burning rays of the Sun. He began to emit poisonous breath in his serpent form, blackening the face of the Sun. Having lost his glorious face by Rahu’s poisonous breath, the Sun sought the favor of Lord Shiva and worshiped him on the northern banks of the Kudamurutti River, a tributary of the Kaveri, under a Bilwa Tree. First Parvathy Devi blessed Sun, and then Lord Shiva himself joined her and the divine couple blessed him. Lord Shiva relieved the Sun of the evil effects of Rahus’s poison and the Sun regained His charm and brightness. Rahu then felt remorse for his actions and begged Lord Shiva’s pardon. The Shiva temple that was built here to commemorate Shiva blessing the Surya. The temple hosts Shiva as Vishahareswarar, which means “poison remover”, along with his consort Prasanna Parvathi Devi. Paruthiyur Vishahareshwara temple is famous and very auspicious. This temple is located 15 kms from Tiruvarur and 6 kms East of Kudavasal on the Northern banks of Kudamurutti River off the Kodavaasal- Nannilam road.
14. Sri Devi / Bhu Devi sametha Kalyana Varadharaja Perumal / Kodanda Rama temple, Aavanam Paruthiyur.
This Kodandarama temple is located 15 kms from Tiruvarur and 6 kms East of Kudavasal on the Northern banks of Kudamurutti River off the Kodavaasal- Nannilam road. The stunning bronze idol of Rama, Sita and Lakshmana dates back to the 10th Century AD. This is one of five popular Rama temples, known as Pancha Rama Kshethrams in this region, the others being Thillai Vilagam, Vaduvur, Mudikondan and Adambavur. Rama is seen in a grand standing posture holding the bow with his left hand while his right is holding a long arrow. The idol of Lord Rama here at this temple is a symbol of divine beauty. Lakshmana is seen sporting a beautiful smile. It is believed that the entire set of idols was found and installed by Paruthiyur Ramayanam Sastri, who also built the temple. Kalyana Varadaraja Perumal, the original moolavar deity is seen in a blessing posture with a Prayoga Chakra along with Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi.
15. Madappuram Dhakshinamurthy Swamigal Adhishtanam, Madappuram, Tiruvarur town.
Sri Dakshinamurti Swami, Arunachalam, in his poorvasrama, was born in a village called Kilalathur, near Tiruchirapalli. His parents were childless, went to Arunachala and did Giri pradakshina. While doing, they heard a voice: “Do not worry. I shall be born as your son!”. Soon Arunachalam was born. The child was dumb in his early years. His father, Sivachidambaram Pillai, brought a monk to see his son. The monk came and saw the child and told his parents, ‘The child is not dumb at all. You can speak to him now.” The parents then asked the child: “O dear child, why are you remaining with eyes closed?” The child replied: ” I am remaining still, Summa Irukkiren!” The monk then continued: “O child, who are you that is remaining still?”The child replied: “You yourself are I. And I am myself you!” The monk then exclaimed: “Satyam, Satyam!” and then the monk vanished from the spot. The parents immediately realized that their child and the monk were both Lord Arunachaleswara. The parents died after a few years and Arunachalam left his village and came to Tiruvottiyur. The child then came to be called Sri Dakshinamurti Swami. He performed many miracles , like curing a brahmin’s daughter who was abnormal and cranky. He then came to Tiruvarur and he stopped further wandering. There was one Somanatha Mudaliar in Chidambram. He was suffering from incurable colic pain and was about to end his life. Lord Nataraja appeared before him and said: Go to Dakshinamurti in Tiruvarur. Mudaliar came to Tiruvarur and was praying to Sri Dakshinamoorthy in Siva temple. The cure was not happening. He again cried and asked Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva said: ”This is not the Dakshinamoorthy, I said. There is one Dakshinamurti, wandering naked in this place. Go to him.” Mudaliar then met Sri Dakshinamurti, eating left overs from leaf plates that were thrown in front of his own house! He went to him and prostrated. Sri. Dakshinamurti Swamigal then placed the leftover food which he had on his hand into the mouth of Mudaliar and then asked: Did Natesan send you here? meaning Lord Nataraja of Chidambaram! It was only after this; the Swami came to be called as Sri Dakshinamurti Swami. A few days before his Maha Samadhi, Sri Dakshinamurti exclaimed: “Finished! Finished! Completely Finished!” and withdrew into a state of permanent Nishta, Absorption in the Self. He is said to have attained Jeeva Samadhi around the end of August 1835. His Samadhi is in 4 places, Madappuram, Chennai Vannaarappettai, Nellai and Yangon. A great vibrant place and special poojas are offered on Guru vaaram (Thursdays) 16. Gnana siddhi Yogambika sametha Somanthaswamy temple, Madappuram, Tiruvarur town. The temple is located on the western banks of Odampokki river, very near to the Dakshinamurthy Swamigal Mutt. It is believed that Indra got rid of his Kayaroga disease by praying to Lord Shiva of this Temple.
17. Akhilandeswari sametha Agastheeswara temple, Koothambadi
A small temple lying in total ruins, except for the Lord’s sannidhi where one time pooja is done. This is 6 kms from Tiruvarur in Palavanakkudi village, just off the Tiruvarur – Nagappattinam main road.
a. Kasi Visalakshi sametha Kasi Viswanatha temple, Pazhavanakkudi
Another small temple in this village, where renovation works are going on for many years and all the idols are placed in the same sannidhi.
18. Lokanayaki sametha Mathangeeswara temple, Adipudhucherry
Another very ancient temple which lies in shambles and all the idols are placed in a shed and one-time pooja done by locals. This is 7 kms from Tiruvarur off the Tiruvarur – Nagappattinam main road.
19. Kasi Visalakshi sametha Kasi Viswanatha temple, Adiyakkamangalam.
This temple is located at a distance of 6 kms from Tiruvarur on Tiruvarur- Keevalur road. This small temple is on the main road facing east. The temple is said to be more than 1500 years old and may have been built during the reign of Nayaks.
20. Soundaranayaki sametha Chandrardhachoodeswara temple, Kallikkudi
This village is 1½ km north of Adiyakkamangalam on the south bank of Odampokki River, which runs from west to east of Tiruvarur. The temple is said to be more than 1500 years old. The temple is not well maintained, and only one-time puja is done. It is believed that if people who are afflicted with chandra dosha worship the Lord in this temple, they can get rid of the dosha.
21. Anandavalli sametha Kailsanatha temple, Nedungudi.
The temple, situated at a distance of 7 kms from Tiruvarur, just off the Tiruvarur – Kilvelur road is big and beautiful, but without proper maintenance.
22. Soundaranayaki sametha Naganatha temple, Neelappadi
This temple is situated on the Tiruvarur- Nagapattinam road, 9 km east of Tiruvarur, on the left side of the road. The temple is said to be more than 1500 years old. Karkotaka, one of the Ashtanagas, Vasishta, Vishwamitra and Narada have worshipped the Lord here. This is believed to be a Sarpa dosha parihaara sthalam. This temple houses a separate sannidhi for Ashta bhuja Jaya Durga, a beautiful idol. People believe that worshipping Her on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays will remove all obstacles in life.
23. Kasi Visalakshi sametha Kasi Viswanatha temple, Naangudi.
A small village temple said to be more than 1000 years old, is 2 kms from Kilvelur.
24. Sundhara Parvathi sametha Kailasanatha temple, Kidaaramkondan.
A wonderful temple, renovated a year ago. This temple is right on the road from Tiruvarur to Nagappatinam.
25. Pushpavalli sametha Naganathaswamy temple, Keezha Puliyur.
This temple is around 8 kms from Tiruvarur on the Mannargudi route. Once this place was known for its tamarind trees and the flourishing trade in tamarind. Large quantities of tamarind used to be transported from this village to different parts of the Chozha kingdom. As tamarind is known as Puli in Tamil, this place came to be called Puliyur and it later became Keezhapuliyur to distinguish it from similar sounding village names. This Shiva temple is an ancient one. It also had a well-known Veda Patasala, which I understand is no longer in existence. Since Marathi speaking people settled down in the Tanjavur kingdom, here also, some of them settled down. One of them was a Veda Pandit. He was suffering from a lot of problems which were eventually traced to Sarpa Dosham. When he prayed to this Lord (only a lingam was installed below a tree), he was advised to offer prayers in wet clothes, after taking bath in the Brahma Tirtham in front of the temple. When he offered prayers in the above manner, he got relief from Sarpa Dosham. The grateful Pandit constructed a small temple. The fame of this temple slowly spread. At that time, the daughter of the then Thanjavur King had a similar problem. When the king’s family prayed here, they got relief. The King constructed an elaborate temple. This is believed to have happened nearly 300 years ago. At that time, he took care to install Ambal and other deities.
(to be continued)
